How to Buy Pearls - Does Pearl Size Matter?

How to Buy Pearls - Does Pearl Size Matter?

Beth Schmitz

When talking about the size of a pearl, you must talk about the variety of pearl as well. For example, size of a Chinese Freshwater Pearl is very different from size of a South Sea Pearl. The Freshwater Pearl is cultured using mantle-tissue nucleation; the South Sea Pearl is cultured using bead-nucleation. Mantle-tissue nucleation adds virtually nothing to the size of the pearl. Bead-nucleation is used to define the size of the pearl -- the bigger the bead, the bigger the pearl.

In this article, I will use two bead-nucleated pearls to discuss the Size Value Factor, one of seven value factors to consider when purchasing pearls and pearl jewelry. Tahitian cultured pearls and South Sea cultured pearls are both cultured using bead-nucleation. In bead-nucleation, a bead made from a freshwater mussel shell is inserted into the oyster as part of the culturing process. Also common to these pearl culturing processes, only one pearl is grown at a time. If the oyster produces a healthy, marketable pearl, the oyster may be implanted again. The subsequent nucleus must be slightly larger -- the size of the pearl just removed. So, the second generation pearl is larger.

The oyster is returned to the waters for its growing period. As with the first generation, this is 18 months to 3 years depending on the farm, growing conditions and desired results.

Upon harvesting the second generation pearl, a third generation implantation may occur. This is rare. As the oyster ages, the quality of pearls it produces goes down. Luster is highest in the first generation.

Can you tell if you are buying a first generation pearl or a third generation pearl? No. You cannot tell the ‘parentage’ of the mollusk just by looking. If you are working closely with the farm, you may have this information. But even the farm is most interested in producing fine quality, lustrous smooth pearls.

This article focused on considerations regarding size of just two varieties pearls. The best rule of thumb? Buy the pearls with the highest luster and the smoothest surface for the best investment value. Buy the pearls that appeal to your heart for the most pleasure.

Beth Schmitz, CEO Avant Pearl, GIA Pearls Graduate

Pearls are an enduring classic of romantic beauty and sophistication suitable for almost any occasions or celebrations. Pearls may be worn with formal eveningwear, with a business suit, or casually with a sweater and jeans. The official June birthstone provides an ideal choice for brides, young women looking for a touch of elegance, or a cherished gift for birthday, Christmas, graduation, sweet-sixteen, anniversary, or just to say I love you.

Once rare and expensive, modern cultured pearls have become an affordable luxury. To choose consider six factors contribute to the value of a pearl: luster, nacre thickness, shape, surface texture, size, and color.

Luster- the Essence of Pearl Beauty

Pearls gain their unique beauty from the play of light reflecting through layers of fine crystalline nacre gradually deposited by an oyster. Nearly transparent nacre gives the deepest luster and the highest reflection. A high-quality pearl will have a brilliant even reflection with a fine warm glow or radiance. Lower quality pearls have a dull sheen.

High-quality Akoya pearls have a higher luster than South Sea or Tahitian pearls, which tend to have a softer, more diffuse reflection.

Color and Overtones

The dominant color of a pearl comes from the main reflection from the pearl surface. The deeper reflected light draws the inner color from the pearl, called the overtone.

Light colored pearls are available in shades of white, cream, and golden. White with pink or silver overtones are generally the most valuable. The most desirable dark colored pearls are black with green or blue overtones.

Color matching is also important when buying pearl jewelry. Perfectly matched pearls in color and size are more valuable than poorly matched pearls.

Shape and Surface Texture

The highest quality pearls are perfectly round with smooth surface, very few surface imperfections, and even coloration. Lower quality pearls may be nearly round, or show more surface imperfections, such as wrinkles or large pits on the surface.

Pearl Size and Necklace Length

The pearls in a strand are measured in a range, such as 7-7.5mm. They are strung with the largest pearls at the center of the necklace and gradually smaller towards the clasp. Larger pearls are more valuable and they create a more dramatic look. High-quality pearls larger than 9 mm are scarce and very expensive.

The classic and most common pearl necklace length is the 17-19 inch princess. It is a good choice for a first pearl necklace because it can be worn with many things.

Decide Pearl Types

There are four types of pearls:

1.Classic Akoya Pearls

2.Large Exotic Black Tahitian Pearls

3.Large Golden or White South Sea Pearls

4.Inexpensive Decorative Freshwater Pearls

The above four types of pearls are all cultured pearls. Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls grow in ocean saltwater so they are also called saltwater pearls.

Akoya pearls are the most popular type for their appealing high luster, luxury and affordability.

At Silver Hills Gems we always stock a wide range of pearls. We concentrate on buying pearls that are both affordable and have high luster. I do not always try and buy the most perfect pearls out there. I like the irregularities in the pearls and believe that these are like signatures or fingerprints. When perals are too perfect I usually do not buy them. As an artist I feel that the character of these not so perfect pearls lends the character to the beading project.

I also feel that so many imitations are now being manufactured and going for perfection will land you with an item that could be manyfactured by any skilled craftsman in a factory. This is just my personal thought.

Gerdus