Findings glossary

Findings glossary

Clasps, earring findings, and other types of findings described

Findings are components, usually made of metal, used to finish, connect, space, or embellish jewelry. Vendors may use the term for all metal jewelry-making components, or they may use it for specific items, such as clasps. Other metal components, such as spacer beads, may be classified as beads.

Clasps

Clasps finish and connect the ends of necklaces and bracelets and should enhance the overall design of your piece. When choosing a clasp, try to keep the size proportionate to your jewelry; a casual and lightweight necklace may be quickly and easily fastened with a lobster claw clasp, but a chunky bracelet of heavy gemstones might warrant a larger toggle or box clasp. Here are some of the basic clasp types available, but keep in mind there are many hybrid-type clasps also on the market.


ball-and-joint and snap clasps


Ball-and-joint and snap clasps differ in shape, but the names are sometimes used interchangeably. Both clasps feature a ball that inserts into a socket to close the clasp.


box and tube clasps


Box, sliding tubes, bayonet, bead, pearl, and tab clasps are closely related. For these clasps, the outer box, tube, or bead shape is attached to one end of the necklace or bracelet, and an inner tab, hook, or tube is attached to the other. The inner component slides inside the outer component to fasten the clasp.


Fold-over clasps, often found on vintage jewelry and watches, consist of a hinged connector and a barred U or loop. The hinged connector has a notch on the bottom where the bar or loop can sit, and the other half of the connector folds over the bottom and latches into place to secure the bar or loop.


hook-and-eye clasps


Hook-and-eye clasps fasten by sliding a hook component through a ring component. They rely on the weight of the piece to hold the clasp closed. This form of clasp can be simple or ornate, and can vary greatly in shape. Multistrand variations are available.


lobster claw clasps


Lobster claw clasps are operated by a trigger, which pivots a small lever to open the clasp. Lobster claw clasps are most often oblong or round in shape, but novelty shapes, such as hearts or animals, are easy to find. Lobster claw clasps can be paired with loops, split rings, soldered jump rings, or two-hole metal tags for a secure finish. See also split rings and soldered jump rings.


Magnetic clasps use the attraction between magnets to hold a necklace or bracelet securely. Some fit one side within the other or fold over for additional security, and others allow you to glue the magnets in place after the clasp has been attached to your jewelry.


S-hook clasps


The S-hook clasp is closely related to the hook-and-eye clasp. A ring is fastened to each end of the necklace or bracelet, and the S-hook attaches to each side.


spring ring clasp


A spring ring clasp has a small trigger that pulls a wire segment inside a tube. When the trigger is released, the wire springs back into place to close the opening. Use them with loops, split rings, soldered jump rings, or two-hole metal tags for a secure finish. See also split rings and soldered jump rings.


toggle clasps


Toggle clasps use a bar and ring to fasten a necklace or bracelet. The bar is pivoted and fed through the ring, then turned so it spans the diameter, holding the piece securely closed. Like hook-and-eye and S-hook clasps, toggles rely on the weight of the jewelry to hold the piece closed, and it is important to have a toggle bar that is long enough to stay braced against the loop.

Earring findings

Earring findings, sometimes called earwires, slide through pierced ears or clamp onto earlobes, providing a loop or base for attaching earring components. They are available in a wide range of styles and many different metals and finishes. All have simple and decorative options.


clip-on earring findings


Clip-on earring findings use pressure to attach earrings to earlobes that aren't pierced. They can clamp on with hinged or screw-on backs.


earring thread findings


Earring thread findings consist of a thin chain attached to a short metal bar that slides through pierced ears.


French hook earring findings


French hook or fishhook earring findings are great for dangling earrings. If desired, small rubber ear nuts can slide onto the back of the hook for additional security.


hoop earring findings


Hoop earring findings are round in shape and often feature loops for dangles. Hoop earring findings attach directly to pierced ears, while hoop design components can be attached to other types of earring findings. See also design components, under Other Findings.


kidney earring findings


Kidney earring findings consist of a single piece of wire shaped into a hook with a loop in the front. The wire bends under the earlobe to hook around the back of the earring.


lever-back earring findings


Lever-back earring findings hook through pierced ears, and are secured with a hinged back.


post earring findings


Post earring findings feature a wire post and a perpendicular loop where you can hang beads or components. Use an ear nut to secure the post in place.

bail

Other findings

Bails have a large loop or tube, which can be strung over a cord or bead strand, and a loop for attaching a pendant or dangle.

bead caps

bead caps

Bead caps are domed spacers that fit around one side of a bead.

bead tips

Bead tips are used to finish projects strung or stitched with thread, Fireline, or cord. A knot or bead sits inside the basket or clamshell of the bead tip, and the hook closes around the clasp loop.

bullion

Bullion, also known as French wire, is a fine coil of very thin wire, usually gold or silver, that slides over thread, cord, or flexible beading wire to conceal and protect it.

chandelier component

Chandelier components or findings are design components commonly used for earrings or pendants, with a single loop above a larger frame with loops or holes for attaching beads. They are very closely related to filigree components and spreaders.

crimp beads

Crimp beads are compressed onto flexible beading wire to hold beads in place, finish the ends of strands, and attach clasps. Crimps are available in round, twisted (or Twisted Tornado), and tube shapes. Round and twisted crimp beads are flattened with chainnose pliers, while tube crimps can be used with chainnose or crimping pliers. Tube crimps come in several sizes. When used to end a project, macro crimps (3 x 3 mm) can be used with multiple strands or heavier gauge beading wire, such as .024. Regular crimps (1 x 2, 2 x 2, and 3 x 2 mm) can be used with beading wire .012-.024, while micro crimps (1 x 1 mm) work only with .010 beading wire, unless they are being used on each side of a bead to hold it in place.

crimp covers

Crimp covers are C-shaped hollow forms that fit over a crimped crimp bead. When closed, they look like a 3 or 4 mm bead.

crimp ends

Crimp ends are used to finish cord and ribbon strands. They compress or fold over the ends of the strands to hold them in place and provide loops for attaching clasps or other

cones

Cones are used to reduce the number of strands or elements in a piece. They are often used at the ends of multistrand necklaces to gather the strands into one group for finishing, and can be used to cover unsightly strand clusters or cord ends.

dangles, drops, and charms

Dangles, often called drops or charms, are used at the end of a strand or fringe for a decorative finish.

eye pins

Eye pins are lengths of wire with a loop at one end used for making links and dangles. They are usually available in 1-3-in. (2.5-7.6 cm) lengths, with a standard thickness of 22- or 24-gauge. It's easy to make your own eye pins - just make a plain loop at the end of a wire. If you are making a project that requires many links, it can be a great time-saver to purchase eye pins instead of making them.

filigree component

Filigree components are wire or metal design components with a lacy, open style. They are often used as links, spreaders, or chandelier components.

head pins

Head pins are lengths of wire that have a ball, cap, or decorative element on one end to keep the beads from sliding off. Head pins are most often used to make dangles. They are usually available in 22- or 24-gauge thickness, and in 1-3-in. (2.5-7.6 cm) lengths. You can make your own head pins by hammering the end of a wire to form a paddle, or by turning the end to make a closed hook or spiral.

jump rings

Jump rings are tiny circles of wire, preferably with flush ends that close securely. They are used to link components, including clasps and strands, and to make chain maille jewelry. Most jump rings are round, but ovals, square, and other shapes are also available. Jump rings can be found in an incredible variety of gauges and diameters, which is a great advantage in chain maille designs. Jump rings are measured by gauge and by the inside diameter (ID) or outside diameter (OD) of the ring. The ratio of the diameter of the ring to the gauge of the ring (the aspect ratio) determines how the chain maille fits together and how the finished piece drapes. When using jump rings with dangles or clasps, round jump rings can turn, and the stress on the ends can cause a gap, leading to a lost dangle, or worse, a lost necklace or bracelet. Oval jump rings can be particularly useful for connecting dangles, since the elongated shape ensures that the dangles hang below the opening in the ring.

links

Links are decorative one-to-one connectors, meaning they have a loop at each end to attach one element to another.

pearl shortener

Pearl shorteners are hinged rings used to turn long necklaces into short, two-strand necklaces. The clasped necklace is folded in half, and the pearl shortener links the two ends, and acts as the clasp of the shortened necklace.

ring findings

Ring findings are usually made of metal. They may be set with a channel that beads or components fit into, or they may consist of a plain or split band with one or more loops on top for attaching beads.



Soldered jump rings are permanently closed, making them ideal for use with lobster claw and spring ring clasps. See also jump rings, split rings, lobster claw clasp, spring ring clasp.

spacers

Spacers sit between strung beads. They can be used singly or in groups and are available in an almost endless variety of shapes, including round, daisy, square, tube, multistrand, large-holed, gemstone-embellished, and more. This type of component is often considered a bead rather than a finding.



Specialty findings evolve as new jewelry trends emerge. The most common types of specialty findings are watch faces and ring findings, both of which are available in a variety of styles.

split ring

Split rings look like tiny key rings. Made from fine-gauge wire, split rings offer the security of soldered jump rings, but are more flexible in their use, since closed loops or soldered jump rings can be attached to them. See also jump ring, soldered jump ring.

spreaders

Spreaders are a type of connector used to increase or decrease the number of strands or elements in a piece of jewelry. Often these connectors are known by the number of strands involved, one example being two-to-one findings. Chandelier components for earrings and filigree components are closely related to this type of finding.



Thread and wire protectors safeguard thread, cord, or flexible beading wire from friction and wear at clasp connections. See also bullion and wire guards.

watch face

Watch faces can be used to make wrist or pendant watches. Bars, loops, or holes around the band are used to attach bands, beads, thread, cord, or other components.



Wire components, including head pins, eye pins, and jump rings, are used to make both simple and decorative links and dangles. They are described in the same terms as the wire used to make them: Gauge and size. Gauge refers to the thickness of the wire. The higher the gauge, the thinner the wire. Size is measured in several different ways: Head pins and eye pins are measured by length, while jump rings are measured by inside or outside diameter. See also eye pins, head pins, and jump rings.

wire guards

Wire guards are U-shaped metal plates used to protect beading wire from wear.